I had only recently heard of Train Railway Fried Rice — a classic Thai dish that dates back more than 100 years. It was originally prepared for travellers commuting by rail, specifically those with a bit more discretionary income. While most passengers purchased their meals from food kiosks or street vendors near the stations, the dishes served onboard were made fresh and considered more luxurious. Over time, this fried rice has become more commonplace, yet it remains a beloved favourite among locals and travellers alike. One visit to the new CHON Modern Thai Cuisine in Toronto, and you’ll feel transported to a warm destination filled with stories just like this.
The storytelling begins with the restaurant’s name. CHON, which means “spoon” in Thai, represents much more than a utensil. It’s a meaningful symbol of Thai dining culture — where each spoonful brings together harmonizing flavours and ingredients, reflecting respect, nourishment, and togetherness.
And if you’ve ever wondered why spoons and forks are more common than chopsticks in Thai dining, the spoon is the main utensil, while the fork is used to guide food onto it — especially handy when you’re enjoying curries! Chopsticks are typically reserved for noodle dishes.
At first glance, the dishes at CHON may seem familiar, but the history and stories behind them bring a deeper appreciation for the regional diversity of Thai cuisine. The menu is filled with discoveries drawing inspiration from ancient recipes, forgotten regional flavours, and traditional cooking philosophies. They are revived with modern techniques and beautiful presentation.
A Beautiful Story Unfolds Between Two Celebrated Thai Chefs
Chef Pii Nong is one of Toronto’s most beloved Thai culinary talents, known for the deeply rooted flavours she learned from her mother while selling street food on the vibrant streets of Bangkok. Those early memories now shape every dish at her namesake restaurant PII NONG — the celebrated Thai spot in the heart of Yonge and Lawrence Village and now considered a jewel of the neighbourhood. When she felt inspired to bring a deeper love for Thai cuisine to Toronto — one that honours ancient recipes while embracing modern artistry — she knew exactly who to call.
Enter Chef Chatchalit Chuayruk, her longtime friend. Born and raised in Thailand, he moved to Australia early in his culinary journey, spending 10 years honing his craft in several restaurants. He later moved to North America, joining Lotus of Siam, a revered Thai institution in Las Vegas known for its Northern Thai cuisine, before making his way to Canada.
Renowned for his refined techniques, deep knowledge of regional Thai flavours, and thoughtful balance of tradition and innovation, Chef Chatchalit now leads the kitchen at CHON, with Chef Pii Nong collaborating alongside him.
Together, they have Toronto buzzing. The dishes, the atmosphere, the storytelling — everything feels at once timeless and new. It’s Thai cuisine that celebrates its rich heritage while stepping boldly into the future.
Dishes Worth Exploring
Thai-Style Laap Beef Tartare
We were immediately intrigued by this dish, especially knowing Chef Chatchalit’s strong background in working with beef from his time in Australia. Tender morsels of beef come topped with a gently poached egg — breaking and mixing the egg creates a rich, creamy, unforgettable bite.
Rawang Curry
A signature must-have. Juicy chicken (or swap in striploin steak or pork rib) nestled in a luscious blend of green curry paste, coconut cream, bamboo shoots, and lime leaf.
Train Railway Fried Rice
The “old school” version features grilled pork, egg, Chinese broccoli, tomato, garlic, onion, cilantro root, and oyster sauce is a comforting, nostalgic dish you won’t want to miss.
Crispy Tom Kha Fish
Golden fried halibut served in a pool of fragrant, velvety coconut sauce, punctuated by a touch of chilli oil for balance and boldness.
Branzino and Mango Salad
A vibrant, flavour-packed dish. It’s recommended to build each bite on your spoon with a piece of fish and the bright mango salad. Made with sour mango, onion, cashew, chilli, cilantro, and fish sauce.
Eggplant Batons
A dream for eggplant lovers! Fresh-cut eggplant is lightly fried and wok-tossed in their secret house-made soy sauce — seriously addictive.
Beachy Mango Sticky Rice
A playful twist on the beloved Thai dessert, this version evokes coastal Thailand. A “floating” island of coconut sticky rice with ripe mango chunks and butter-cookie “sand,” surrounded by a soothing sea of butterfly pea coconut sauce.
Fans of Pii Nong will also find many of her beloved classics on the menu, including her Crying Tiger Steak, Pad See Ew Beef, Pad Gra Pow, and Original Thai Pineapple Fried Rice. And yes, the Teddy Bear drinks are here too!
CHON Modern Thai Cuisine is located at 1677 Bayview Avenue in Leaside, Toronto.
Note: Grand Opening is Saturday, December 13, and the first 50 tables will receive a complimentary appetizer platter valued at $50.
