I’ll admit it: I had old ideas about Québec City. Spending four days in town for the annual summer Festival d’été de Québec (FEQ) changed my perception. The whole experience made me wish I had more time to explore the historic neighbourhood and UNESCO World Heritage Site. I quickly realized that Québec City had far more to offer than I had expected. Let me tell you what captured my attention in Québec’s vibrant old city.
If you’re picturing Old Québec as a sleepy open-air museum, think again. FEQ certainly amps up the vibe, but beyond the festival, the busy streets, lively patios, and beautiful St. Lawrence River views made me curious to see more. No matter how many stairs or hills I climbed, I kept wanting to see what was around every cobblestone corner.
Québec City Knows How To Throw A Festival
The 58th annual Festival d’été de Québec made history by selling 125,000 passes in under three hours, proving why it’s one of Canada’s most popular music festivals. Over 11 days, more than 175 performances took place across six stages, bringing together Québec artists and international talent like Patrick Watson, Royel Otis, and Haute & Freddy.
One of the best parts of FEQ was discovering more French-Canadian music. I finally got to see Juno Award-winning Klô Pelgag perform live after listening to their music for a few years, and I also discovered queer singer and rapper Soraï. FEQ introduced me to international artists I hadn’t heard before too, including French rapper Josman and Brussels-based quartet TUKAN.
And to my surprise, FEQ turned me into a KESHA fan! KESHA and her dancers delivered one of the most energetic performances of the festival, complete with unforgettable hair flips and extravagant costumes.
For anyone travelling from Toronto or elsewhere in Canada, FEQ offers a dynamic mix of big-name performers and fresh musical talent. I was impressed by how well organized the festival was, from the stage production and IMAG visuals to the excellent sound quality and efficient security checks. Most importantly, I felt safe throughout the festival experience.
Plan A Québec Music Festival Getaway
The fun doesn’t stop with FEQ. Here are two more Québec City festivals worth travelling for:
- Cigale in August at the Port of Québec’s Beauport Bay
- Fono in September at the campus of Université Laval
When The Music Stopped, Québec City Kept Me Moving
I never would have guessed that after FEQ brought me to Québec City, exploring Old Québec itself would become such a highlight of my visit. Outside the music festival, I discovered distinctive architecture, literary and art spaces, Québec specialties, and places beyond the historic walls. Here are a few of the moments that satisfied my curiosity.
Get Your Steps In Exploring Québec’s Culture & History
One of the unexpected perks of attending FEQ was how easy it was to combine a full day of sightseeing with an evening of live music.
Breezy Boardwalks & Panoramic Views
One walk I recommend is from Fairmont Le Château Frontenac hotel to the Citadelle. Starting at Dufferin Terrace, you can follow the Governor’s Promenade, a 310-step elevated walkway leading toward the Plains of Abraham and Québec’s Citadelle. At approximately 100 metres above sea level, the Citadelle is the city’s highest point. Along the way, you’ll find plenty of photo opportunities, including sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River, the Laurentian Mountains, and the castle-like silhouette of the Château Frontenac.
Around two million people a year stroll the terrace boardwalk named for Lord Dufferin, a governor general of Canada who fell in love with Québec. After seeing these views, I imagine you’ll also fall for the city.
Nerd Out in Québec City
For bookish travellers, I suggest you pop into the modernistic, Neo-Gothic House of Literature, a library with exhibits and literary events in a former church built in 1848. In fact, its reading room was the city’s first public library. Pair this with a visit to the Morrin Centre, built over 200 years ago as one of the city’s first jails. It has one of the world’s most beautiful Victorian libraries and hosts an annual writers’ festival, concerts, readings and lectures.
Contemporary Art Experience
The Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec (MNBAQ) was the first museum created by Québec’s provincial government in 1920 and now houses a collection of more than 42,000 works. During my visit, I made a point to see the current exhibition, Hyperrealism: This Is Not a Body, which runs until October 2026. The exhibition explores how the human body has been depicted in sculpture from the 1970s to the present day. Delightfully bizarre, This Is Not a Body may have you second-guessing anyone standing or sitting perfectly still long after you leave.
Another reason to stop by the Musée is its brilliant gift store. Pick up a set of Frida Kahlo origami papers, Marina Abramović instruction cards to reboot your life, or a pair of avant-garde earrings designed by Québec-based jewellery designer Anne-Marie Chagnon.
I have to admit, taking time to wander around the city was one of my favourite parts of the visit. I found Old Québec has a lively personality that goes beyond its historic charm.
If you’re planning a trip here, I suggest you look at the Destination Québec Cité website.
Beyond The City Walls: Seeing Another Side Of Québec
Here are a few fun side quests outside the city walls of Old Québec that will expand your horizons. Take a ferry across the St. Lawrence River to Lévis, located directly opposite Québec City. Spend time at the water’s edge at Quai Paquet, or make the steep climb to Terrasse du Chevalier-de-Lévis park for amazing skyline views. It’s an ideal spot for fireworks, sunsets, and seeing Québec from a fresh perspective.
Another way to experience the city from the water is with a guided river cruise from Croisières AML. Several departures run throughout the day, with each cruise lasting around 1.5 hours.
Going in another direction altogether, plan a visit to Île d’Orléans. This island day trip takes you to the slower-paced countryside of farms, local food, and cute shops. I recommend a patio lunch at Au Poste de Traite, followed by award-winning apple and fruit ciders at Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau and sweet treats at La Fudgerie.
Île d’Orléans has enough restaurants, gourmet shops, galleries, and boutiques to easily fill a day. Before or after your visit, make time for Montmorency Falls, located just across from the island’s western tip. At 30 metres higher than Niagara Falls, there are several ways to experience it, including the suspension bridge, cable car, or cliffside staircase.
This might sound like a lot, but it’s completely doable. I attended FEQ, walked all over Old Québec, and completed these mini side quests in just four days. The secret to making it all work? Staying at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac hotel.
Where To Stay In Old Québec? Go For Gold At The Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
I’m just going to start by saying the Fairmont Gold program at Fairmont Le Château Frontenac was the perfect choice for my Québec visit. Staying here felt like being inside a castle while having access to a boutique hotel experience within it. The private Fairmont Gold Lounge became my favourite place to recharge, with a deluxe breakfast buffet, evening le 5 à 7 hors d’oeuvres, and all-day premium non-alcoholic beverages. When you’re racing around a new city trying to see and do everything, having a calm place to rest makes a difference.
I loved every detail of my stay, from the Le Labo Santal 33 and Rose 31 bathroom products to the fluffy robes, slippers, nightly turndown service, and my view overlooking Old Québec. The hotel’s location really made me feel connected with the vibe of the festival and the city’s history.
Another trip highlight was going on a hotel tour and learning about the Château Frontenac Signature Rooms inspired by famous guests, including filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock, Queen Elizabeth II, and Céline Dion. I was thrilled to find out the hotel has rooftop beehives alongside the cooks’ garden. Knowing the honey served at breakfast came from the hotel’s own bees made it even sweeter. I love that the Château Frontenac supports urban beekeeping.
Truly, my stay at the Château Frontenac was golden. Honestly, it’s hard to imagine a better place to stay when visiting Québec City for the first time.
Why Food Lovers Love Québec City
Every outing in Old Québec seemed to lead me to another café, bakery, or restaurant serving specialties worth trying. While I enjoyed a few meals at the Château Frontenac hotel, I also found some local spots to share with you.
Restaurant Chez Boulay
For this visit, Chez Boulay was at the top of my list. Located in Old Québec, this MICHELIN Guide-recommended restaurant serves a boreal menu inspired by northern Québec cuisine. What stood out most was how delicious and memorable the food was. For my first dinner in the city, it was the perfect way to fuel up before a night of live music and festival bar hopping. Dinner started with a savoury entrée of heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, St-Lin Stracciatella cheese, sourdough croutons, and the restaurant’s signature verge d’or poivronnade. The main course was the best: bison steak with garden carrots, smoked native berries, and pont-neuf fries. The meat was incredibly tender, I would fully order this dish again.
Restaurant La Buche
After a day of hiking up and down between Québec’s lower and upper towns, you’ll want a hearty meal. Go with La Buche’s pâté chinois, a traditional casserole similar to Shepherd’s Pie. This filling dish has three layers: mashed potatoes, creamy corn, and red-wine-braised beef, served with a side of fruity ketchup. La Buche also has a hidden backyard patio, offering a quiet escape from the busy tourist streets.
Café La Maison Smith on Rue St-Jean
Coffee lovers should make time for La Maison Smith. The café’s connection to Québec culture dates back to 1653 and its original Place Royale location. Smith Cafés around the old city are easy places to pause for pastries, sandwiches, snacks, and cheesecake. With more than a dozen coffee blends available, La Maison Smith is a great place to pick up a unique Québec souvenir. Each blend has a name inspired by places and moments in Québec history, including Saint Lawrence, Battlefields, Tour de l’île, Montcalm, and Charles Smith.
For an impromptu picnic on the Plains of Abraham, pick up fresh bread from Paillard boulangerie-pâtisserie along with a pot of their house jam.
And if you have a sweet tooth like me, try Québec food specialties like pudding chômeur (poor man’s pudding) and maple syrup pie.
Best Way To Québec City From Toronto
Getting to Québec City is a lot easier than you might think. Yes, the drive is around seven hours, but depending on gas prices and your schedule, it may make more sense to plan ahead and take VIA Rail or fly with Porter or Air Canada.
Another option is taking Megabus to Montréal and then arranging a rideshare or connecting transportation to continue your journey to Québec City. However you choose to arrive, the biggest takeaway is this: Québec City is closer than you think, and absolutely worth the trip.
Québec City Travel Tips
Old Québec isn’t just a pretty place to look at; it’s a lively historic city meant to be experienced. Based on my time in the city, here are tips to help you enjoy your visit.
- Stay in Old Québec to make getting around much easier
- Wear comfortable walking shoes for cobblestone streets
- Pace yourself for plenty of stairs and hilly walks
- Check café and restaurant opening hours in advance
- Bring an umbrella or rain poncho
- Pack snacks and water in a tote bag for exploring
- Prepare for all types of weather
The last tip is probably the most important. Even in the middle of summer, Québec City weather can change quickly, going from hot and humid one moment to rainy and chilly the next.
Speaking French vs. English in Québec
One thing I hear often from English-speaking travellers heading to Québec is the worry about trying to speak French. As a visitor, I appreciate how important the French language and culture are to Québec, but I also found that in places like Québec City and Montréal, locals are generally welcoming and patient with tourists.
My advice? Try a little French. Start with a simple bonjour or merci — those small efforts go a long way. But if that’s where your French ends, don’t stress. English is widely understood in touristy areas, and the goal is to enjoy your trip, connect with people, and experience everything Québec has to offer.
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Merci to Destination Québec Cité for helping me with an itinerary for this trip. Thanks to Charles for the hotel tour, and Sabrina and team at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. One of my favourite Québec souvenirs is my FEQ tote bag, made by ciao totes, a Canadian company based in Québec City — un merci spécial à BLEUFEU!
